Super Duty 8x180mm Lug Drilling Fixture Guide

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Want or need to run late model GM 8x180mm lug pattern wheels on a Super Duty 60 unit bearing? Here’s the solution.  These take the guess work out of re-drilling the unit bearings, allowing you to not pay exorbitant machining fees to simply have 8 holes drilled. The flange material is soft enough that no pilot holes are required(which can lead to bit walking and pattern tolerance to lose accuracy

These are finish-drilled to match the specific size drill bit required(which we can also provide), to reuse the factory Ford metric wheel studs(Dorman 610-424 and 610-455).

If the conventional Dana 60 9/16” wheel stud is desired, Dorman 610-347 will press fit into the same hole, are the same length as the factory metric studs(2.906’’ vs 2.886’’).

Simply knock 4 of the factory studs out(every other), drop the fixture plate onto the unit bearing’s remaining 4 studs(aligned with the notches), clamp tight to flange, drill, deburr and press the studs in new holes.  Brake rotors will also need to be redrilled to match the new pattern, using the same drill bit. Holes in rotors don't have to be absolutely perfect, as the stud knurl is larger than the threads and the rotors are hub-centric, meaning their alignment is via the wheel bearing hub pilot.

We advise using a drill press or mill to drill out unit bearing to ensure the holes/studs are square to the wheel mounting surface. We also advise that once the whole drill bit tip is submerged past the flange surface(to the point where the bit can no longer walk), removing the fixture plate from the unit bearing, as the sharp flutes can cut/oblong the fixture’s guide holes, making it inaccurate.

Can be purchased with or without the needed 39/64" drill bit for the proper tolerance required for the stud knurl’s press-fit. The bit is a high quality coated HSS bit, not a cheapy.

On some unit bearings clearancing may be required on the mounting flange of the unit bearing for clearance to install the wheel studs in their new location.  This can easily be done with a carbide burr, we prefer to do it in the dip of the casting near one of the stud mounting ears.